MODEL, ELLE DOWLING'S PALE SKIN MAKEUP TIPS
A Daily Makeup Regime For Pale Skin
So let me begin by saying how happy I am to be writing this first blog post for The 4 Of Us, they are such a wonderful group of girls and beautiful models on top!
As a model myself but with very pale (and relatively sensitive) skin, I find the most common question I get asked is ‘what beauty products do you use?” It can be hard to find the right products to match your skin tone and type, as well as trying to avoid some of the nasty ingredients that can cause irritation and breakouts.
For me as a general rule, the ‘go to’ brands are Nars, Laura Mercier, Bobbi Brown and Shiseido. These get used on me regularly at work, have a great range of pale shades, and do not seem prone to causing allergic reactions like Mac or Chanel can do.
Over the past years of being in some very talented makeup artist’s hands like Lisa Eldridge, Andrew Gallimore, Mary Greenwell and Kenneth Soh, I have copied a few products from them which now form the core of my makeup regime. I don’t like to wear heavy makeup on my days off because it’s good to give your skin space to breathe but there are some fuller coverage options for evening.
Step I // skin protection:
Post cleansing, make sure to apply SPF. This is the MOST IMPORTANT thing you can do for you skin in terms of protection and anti-aging. No excuse, winter or summer!
I alternate between Nars Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser SPF 30 in Terre-Neuve Light 0(£30), Bare Minerals Complexion Rescue Tinted Hydrating Gel Cream SPF 30 in Vanilla (£28) and Clinique Super City Block SPF 40 (£18.50). YSL do a brilliant tinted moisturiser for those with more of a pink undertone to their skin.
In the winter if my skin feels dry I will apply a hydrating serum underneath such as Medik8 Hydr8 B5 Serum (£37). In the summer if there is strong sun I will switch the tinted moisturiser for La Roche Posay SPF 50 (£17), there is a tinted version available but personally I find it a bit orange (especially when one has orange hair..) This particular SPF is great because it has a high protection rating yet is light and non-greasy.
Step II // building the base:
Depending on how much coverage you want, you can either skip straight to applying concealer (I do this during summer), or apply a layer of foundation.
Foundation; For light daily coverage I apply Make Up For Ever UltraHD Foundation (£30) in Y215 with a damp beauty blender (£18). Using the beauty blender enables me to layer more if I want to but also ensures a sheer finish and no awkward foundation lines. For fuller coverage I use Charlotte Tilbury Magic Foundation (£30) in 2 or Nars Sheer Glow Foundation (£32). The latter is more of a dewy finish.
Concealers; The one concealer that I see hiding in EVERY makeup artist’s kit is Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer (£23), simply because it’s the best. I use Light 1 Chantilly for under my eyes and to cover up any redness or blemishes in the winter. In the summer I go down a shade otherwise you will end up accidentally highlighting the spots you are trying to hide. If you’ve really been hit by a killer blemish that refuses to disappear no matter what you try, pop down to M&S and buy some ‘Amazing Concealer’ (yes that’s actually what it’s called). This is designed for HD TV use and really lives up to the name.. thanks for the tip Kenneth Soh! Another excellent concealer is Bare Minerals Bareskin Complete Coverage Serum Concealer (£22), I use Fair.
Step III // contour and highlight:
By this I don’t mean Kim Kardashian style but a little contouring on the cheekbones is a great way to define your face. I apply a little of the Tom Ford Shade and Illuminate Palette in 01 (£58) down the contour of my cheekbones where I suck my cheeks in. I then blend this using a foundation brush such as Eve Lom (£38), MAC and Real Techniques do a similar brush for less but I always fall for pretty packaging..!
In the daytime, I will highlight the top of my cheekbones with Makeup Forever Pro Light Fusion Undectable Luminizer in 01 (£27.50) which is a very subtle and slightly pink glow that catches the light and makes you look fresh and healthy! Particularly useful if you are hungover. ;)
In the evening, I will use a more golden highlighter to give a warm glow in the darker light, my favourite is Kevyn Aucoin Celestial Skin Liquid Lighting (£42). I like to team this with a nude lip, bronze smoky eye and brown mascara (Benefit do a great one).
Step IV // eyebrows:
Keep it simple. I will fill mine in using a simple light taupe eyeshadow and then brush them up with Nars Clear Brow Gel (£18), but any drugstore brow gel will do the job. If I’m in a rush I use MAC Pro Longwear Waterproof Brow Set in Emphatically Blonde (£14.50) and fill the odd gap in using Tom Ford Brow Sculptor in Blonde (£36). The trick is not to go too dark compared to your natural hair colour. For redheads, it’s usually easiest to use products designed for dark blonde people. If you have orange hair AND orange eyebrows you might look a bit mad (I have made this mistake). ;)
Step V // eyes and lips:
I like to go mascara free in the daytime because I think it’s bad to constantly be rubbing the delicate eye area to get it all off again in the evening! To accentuate my eyes I will apply a light layer of taupe eyeshadow (Bobbi Brown and MAC have a few great palettes for this) and buff it in really well around the socket. If this isn’t enough you can further define your upper and lower lash lines using a light brown eyeliner such as MAC Bountiful Brown Powerpoint Eye Pencil (£14.50). Using a lot of black mascara by itself in the daytime on someone who is pale, especially with red hair can make them look a bit panda-esque.
For lips I like to stick to a tinted lip balm or a moisturising lipstick. Bare Minerals Pop of Passion Lip Balms are great (£17), Clarins Instant Light Natural Lip Balm Perfector (£18.50) and Chanel Rouge Coco Shine in Boy (£28). At nighttime for a super moisturising balm I use Nuxe or By Terry.
Step VI // final touches:
I like to set my makeup with a translucent finishing powder. My favourites are Hourglass Ambient Lighting Finishing Powder in Etheral Light – Cool Translucent (£40) and Make Up Forever Ultra HD loose powder (£24.50), these are used on shoots all the time! I use a 168 large angled contour brush by MAC (£28) to apply it around my T-zone and chin because the big ‘powder’ brushes always take up too much product and you can’t apply it accurately. Less is more!
I hope you pale skinned people out there find this helpful! It took me years to find the right products that really worked for me and looked natural. Feel free to get in contact with me via Instagram @elle_dowling if you have any questions!
To finish, I am well aware that I have mentioned quite a lot of products here, so if you don’t feel like ordering an entire makeup kit, the essential three I can’t live without are the ones above shown in the pictures